Menu & Greetings献立・ご挨拶

９月９日は重陽ですが、新暦の頃は菊を愛でるには、まだ暑さが残っています。今年は、本暦(旧暦)の九月九日は閏六月が入りましたのでずっと先になり新暦１０月２９日にあたります。期せずして菊の花も本来の美しい姿を見せてくれる頃と重なりました。今年も本暦の頃に合わせて、寒露から霜降の頃に菊づくしの料理をご用意いたします。

ひさかたのくものうえにてみるきくは
あまつほしとぞあやまたれける　
藤原敏行(古今集)

宮中でみる菊の花は
天上の星と見誤れるほどのものです。

中国の魏の文帝が、不老不死の薬水が湧きでる泉が酈縣山(れっけんさん)のふもとにあるという噂を聞き、臣下に探しに向かわせます。そこで菊の花の咲き乱れた山中の庵で菊慈童に出会います。話を聞けば、周の穆王(ぼくおう)に仕えた慈童で七百歳となっても少年の姿を保っていることに驚きます。この菊慈童伝説により菊が不老長寿の霊薬とされたと言われています。

菊は不老長寿の薬効があるとされ奈良時代に日本にもたらされました。初めは長寿の薬として珍重されていましたが、平安の世になり、その花の美しさ、香りの高貴さに心惹かれた王朝貴族たちは、重陽の節句に菊の花を持ち寄り、歌を添えて競い合う「菊くらべ」を楽しんだといいます。それから更に時代は下り元禄の頃には、園芸が町衆にも広がりました。丹精込めて菊を育て、菊の節句に自慢の菊を玄関先に並べて菊花壇を仕立て、道ゆく人の目を楽しませたようです。

柏屋の菊の料理は菊酒とお先付、菊の煮物椀から始まります。菊が薬として珍重されていた頃を思わせます。そして「菊くらべ」をなぞったお造り。菊花壇に見立てた八寸へ続きます。そして更に時代は下り令和になり、柏屋が菊に寄せる思い込めたお菓子と抹茶で菊の歴史を辿る旅を締めくくります。

晩秋のころ、雅なひとときをお楽しみください。

September 9 marks Chōyō, the Double Ninth Festival, chrysanthemums festival.  In the solar calendar, the lingering warmth of summer still remains.  This year, due to the leap month of June, the ninth day of the ninth month in the lunar calendar falls much later—on October 29 in the solar calendar.  By that time, the chrysanthemums will be in their prime, revealing their true, graceful beauty.  In keeping with the season, Kashiwaya will present a chrysanthemum-themed cuisine from Cold Dew to Frost Descent.

Hisakata no
Kumo no ue nite
Miru kiku wa
Amatsu hoshi to zo
Ayamatarekeru
— Fujiwara no Toshiyuki, Kokin Wakashū

The chrysanthemums seen at the Imperial Court are so radiant, they could be mistaken for stars in the heavens.

In the time of the Wei dynasty, Emperor Wen heard of a spring flowing at the foot of Mount Rekken that was said to contain the elixir of immortality.  He sent a servant to find it.  There, amidst a mountain filled with blooming chrysanthemums, the servant encountered Kiku Jidō—a boy who, it was said, had once served King Mu of the Zhou dynasty.  To his astonishment, though seven hundred years had passed, the boy still retained his youthful form.  From this legend, the chrysanthemum came to be revered as a flower of eternal life.

The chrysanthemum reached Japan during the Nara period (710–784), prized at first for its medicinal properties that promised longevity.  In the Heian era (794–1185/1192), court nobles, captivated by its beauty and refined fragrance, began holding Kiku Kurabe—gatherings where they would bring chrysanthemums, compose poems, and celebrate their splendor.

By the Genroku era (1688–1704), the cultivation of chrysanthemums had spread to townsfolk.  They grew the flowers with care and proudly displayed them at their doorways during the festival, arranging Kiku Kadan—chrysanthemum flowerbeds—to delight passersby.

At Kashiwaya, our chrysanthemum-inspired menu begins with kiku-sake, a fragrant sake infused with chrysanthemum, and an appetizer, followed by a warm soup that recalls the flower’s ancient role as a healing medicine.  The otsukuri course evokes the elegance of Kiku Kurabe, while the hassun—arranged like a chrysanthemum garden—reflects the joy of the Genroku townsfolk.  Finally, in our own Reiwa era, we, Kashiwaya, invite you to savour a sweet inspired by the chrysanthemum, accompanied by matcha.

May you enjoy a refined autumn moment, tracing the long and graceful journey of the chrysanthemum through time.

* Cold Dew / Frost Descent: The traditional East Asian calendars divide a year into 24 solar terms. “White dew” is the 15th solar term and starts on October 8th. “Autumn equinox” is the 16th solar term, starting from October 23rd.